Complete Wiring Guide for 2019 Dodge Charger Radio Harness Connections

2019 dodge charger radio wiring diagram

For immediate troubleshooting, refer to connector C2 on the factory harness–pinouts 18 (yellow), 3 (gray), and 12 (purple) carry constant 12V, switched ignition, and illumination signals respectively. Grounds cluster at pins 4, 5, and 6 (black), but verify continuity with chassis points G301 and G302 before reconnecting. Aftermarket units often mislabel speaker wires; match resistance values: front left (light blue/white) and front right (dark green/white) should read 4 ohms ± 0.5, rear pairs (brown/white and tan/white) typically 2 ohms due to factory amplifier integration.

Anticipate variations in the data bus interface. Pins 1 (orange) and 10 (pink) on connector C1 deliver CAN-H and CAN-L signals–use a scope to confirm 2.5V nominal with ±1V oscillations at 500 kbps. Static or missing pulses indicate a severed harness near the OBD-II port (TSB 18-003 addresses corrosion here). Bypass factory amplifiers only after isolating the harness from the rear subwoofer output (pin 14, violet/black)–direct connection risks overdriving aftermarket tweeters.

Retain the original steering wheel control module wiring if adaptive interfaces matter. Pin 9 (white/red) carries 0-5V resistive ladder signals; splice with a 1/8W 2kΩ resistor to prevent ghost inputs. Climate control retains power through pin 16 (brown/red), but disconnect this line before bench-testing–backfeeding can fry the BCM under fuse F28. For vehicles with Uconnect 4C, note the quadlock adapter’s micro-coaxial cables (pins 23-26) handling GPS and satellite data–damage here disables navigation permanently.

Test every connection with a 5kΩ load resistor before full reassembly. Factory schematics omit splice points for auxiliary USB (pins 7-8, gray/yellow and gray/violet); verify 5V @ 2A output or replace the inline fuse holder under the dash. If backlighting flickers, inspect pin 13 (light blue/orange) for 3V PWM–a failing TIPM often kills dimming functionality first.

Complete Guide to Electrical Connections for Your 2019 Sedan Audio System

Start by locating the OEM harness behind the factory-installed receiver–the connector typically has 16 pins arranged in two rows. Match each wire by color and function to the aftermarket adapter (Metra 70-1002 or equivalent):

  • Dark green/red: Left rear speaker (+), 4 ohms
  • Orange/white: Antenna motor feed, 12V trigger
  • Light green/orange: Right rear speaker (+), 4 ohms
  • Violet/gray: Right front speaker (+), 2 ohms
  • Gray/black: Right front speaker (-), twisted pair
  • Dark blue/white: Amplifier turn-on, 500 mA max

Strip 5 mm of insulation from each wire, then crimp with insulated female spade terminals (0.25″ gauge). Secure connections using heat-shrink tubing–apply 120°C for 10 seconds with a heat gun to create a watertight seal. Avoid soldering; factory wires use thin copper strands prone to breaking under stress.

Critical Failure Points and Workarounds

  1. If the display backlight flickers after installation, check the dimmer wire (gray/light blue)–it carries a variable voltage (0–12V) from the headlight switch. Use a 1kΩ resistor in-line to stabilize current if dimming behaves erratically.
  2. Static during engine crank signals poor grounding. Mount a dedicated M8 bolt directly to the chassis near the fuse box, sanding paint to bare metal for a low-resistance path.
  3. Bluetooth pairing issues often stem from the dark green/violet UART data bus. Verify continuity with a multimeter; resistance should read below 0.5Ω. Replace the factory harness if readings exceed 2Ω–signs of corrosion or fraying.

Use a digital oscilloscope to confirm speaker wires carry clean 40Hz–20kHz sine waves at 0.5V RMS before finalizing connections. Test each channel individually by playing pink noise through a tone generator–distortion above 0.3% THD indicates impedance mismatch or shorted wiring.

Matching OEM Audio System Plugs for Aftermarket Upgrades

Locate the main harness connectors by referencing the vehicle’s original audio module connector pins: a 12-pin rectangular plug (Molex 88701-2218) and twin 16-pin squared plugs (TE Connectivity 2-1761262-1). Use a multimeter set to continuity mode to verify pin assignments before disconnecting–grounds (pins 1–3 on the rectangular plug) should register near-zero ohms, while accessory power (pin 10, same plug) reads 12V keyed hot. Mismatches here risk silent outputs or erratic behavior in the new head unit.

Connector Pin Function Expected Voltage
Molex 88701-2218 1–3 Chassis ground 0 Ω
Molex 88701-2218 4 ILL+ (dimmer) Varies, 0–12V
Molex 88701-2218 10 ACC (switched +12V) 12V keyed
TE 2-1761262-1 Left 5–6 Front door speaker (+/-) 4–7V RMS
TE 2-1761262-1 Right 1–2 Amplified antenna 7–10V supply

Skip universal adapters labeled “plug-and-play”; they rarely align CAN bus data lines (pins 12–14 on the 12-pin plug) required for retained steering wheel controls and chime integration. Instead, source an exact model-specific harness (Metra 70-5003 or Axxess AX-AWC1) or solder extensions directly to preserve OEM telematics. Double-check pulse-width modulated signals on the CAN lines with an oscilloscope–proper patterns show a 1 kHz square wave; flat lines indicate a severed bus link.

Step-by-Step Guide to Safely Disconnecting the Factory Audio System Harness

Locate the vehicle’s negative battery terminal and detach it first using a 10mm wrench to prevent short circuits. Wait at least 10 minutes before proceeding–this allows capacitors in the factory amplifier to discharge completely. Failure to do so risks damaging sensitive electronics or triggering airbag errors.

Removing Trim Panels Without Damage

Pry off the climate control trim bezel using a flat plastic trim tool, starting at the lower corners. Work upward slowly to avoid snapping the integrated clips. For vehicles with a touchscreen display, gently slide the tool along the top edge while supporting the panel with your other hand to prevent flex cracking the screen. Once removed, set screws aside in a labeled container to avoid misplacement.

Disconnect the harness connectors by pressing the release tabs firmly–most use a squeeze-and-pull mechanism, but some require a 90-degree twist. Label each connector with masking tape and a marker (e.g., “amp in,” “speakers R/L”) to simplify reinstallation. For stubborn connections, apply dielectric grease sparingly to the contacts before reattachment to prevent corrosion. Never force connectors; if resistance is felt, check for hidden locking tabs or debris blocking the alignment pins.

Aligning Aftermarket Head Unit Cables with Factory Harness Codes

Connect the aftermarket power lead (typically red or yellow) to the OE harness’ BATT/constant 12V terminal–pin 16 on the 28-pin factory connector labeled “C1.” Verify this terminal maintains voltage with the ignition off before securing the splice. Ground–black on most aftermarket units–must tie into the OE sheet-metal stud via a minimum 12-gauge conductor; bolt the ring terminal directly to the stud located beneath the instrument panel brace, ensuring no paint or corrosion interrupts conductivity.

Illumination, accessory trigger, and audio inputs require precise pairing: aftermarket orange/white wires link to OE pin 3 (illumination dimmer); aftermarket purple wires stream left-front speaker signals to OE pin 2 (LF+) and pin 11 (LF–); right-front aftermarket gray wires feed OE pin 19 (RF+) and pin 28 (RF–). Always confirm pairs maintain ± polarity alignment to prevent phase cancellation; use galvanized crimp connectors or solder and adhesive-lined shrink tubing for every joint.

Identifying Power, Ground, and Audio Signal Conductors in Vehicle Head Units

Begin by tracing the primary constant power feed–typically a yellow or orange cable–back to its fuse panel origin. This conductor maintains memory functions and presets, drawing 10-15A steady current. Verify continuity with a multimeter set to 20V DC range; probe the connector terminal while the ignition is off. A reading below 11.5V indicates potential voltage drop, often caused by corroded terminals or undersized wiring gauges.

Secure chassis ground connections at three critical points:

  • Direct metal-to-metal attachment to the vehicle’s firewall or manufacturer-designated bolt
  • Star grounding configuration to prevent ground loops; avoid daisy-chaining
  • Minimum 12AWG conductor thickness for proper current handling (

Analyze speaker outputs by following these impedance-matching steps:

  1. Disconnect the amplifier output lines to prevent backfeeding into the head unit
  2. Measure continuity between each terminal pair–expected values differ by speaker type:
    • Full-range: 2-8Ω
    • Tweeters: 4-16Ω
    • Subwoofers: 1-4Ω
  3. Identify polarity by lightly tapping the positive terminal with a 1.5V AA cell; correct phase produces outward cone movement
  4. Reconnect with oxygen-free copper conductors, ensuring shielded RCA cables for front/rear channels if using external amplification

Switched power–commonly red–activates the unit during ignition; test by probing with a test light while cycling the key. Observe for intermittent flashes, which signal faulty relays or ignition switch contacts. For aftermarket integration, splice this conductor to the accessory circuit’s 20A fuse, avoiding direct battery taps to prevent parasitic drain. Use a relay if extending beyond the fuse block to maintain circuit protection.

Inspect illumination control–usually orange/white striped–by varying dashboard dimmer settings while monitoring voltage swing (typically 0-12V). Replace factory bulbs with 3mm LEDs if retrofitting, but recalculate resistor values to match the original 20mA draw. For high-power amplifiers, tap into the alternator’s B+ terminal using 4AWG welding cable, isolating it with a 60A fuse within 7 inches of the connection point.