Complete Mitsubishi Galant 2000 Stereo Wiring Color Guide and Diagram
Begin by locating the factory harness behind the radio unit–typically a 20-pin connector colored white or gray in models from the specified year. Identify pins 1 (constant 12V), 4 (switched power), 5 (ground), 8 (illumination), and 11-14 (speaker outputs). If splicing into existing wires, use crimp connectors or solder joints sealed with heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion. Avoid tap splices; they degrade signal quality over time.
Front speakers connect via thick light green (left positive) and gray (left negative) wires, paired with dark green (right positive) and violet (right negative) for the rear. Check impedance–stock speakers typically handle 4 ohms, but aftermarket units may require recalibration. For amplified systems, reroute power cables away from RCA or speaker wires to minimize interference. Validate each connection with a multimeter before reassembly; a misrouted ground can trigger amplifier shutdowns or fuse failures.
Steering wheel controls rely on a separate 6-pin harness–usually orange (data), yellow (ground reference), and two blue wires for volume/function inputs. Retrofit kits like Metra ASWC-1 or PAC SWI-JACK bypass factory protocols by simulating button presses. Ensure compatibility with your head unit’s brand; Alpine and Pioneer use distinct signaling compared to Kenwood or Sony. If retrofitting Bluetooth, merge the microphone input (pin 10, often a thin purple wire) with the ground plane to reduce noise.
For dashboard removal, pry open the climate control bezel first–it snaps off with minimal force. Remove screws securing the radio cage (typically two 10mm bolts). If installing a double-DIN unit, fabricate a mounting bracket or use a Metra 99-8213 kit; factory housing isn’t designed for larger dimensions. Always disconnect the battery’s negative terminal before handling any electrical connections to prevent ECU resets or airbag deployment.
Audio System Electrical Guide for Late-Model Sedan
For precise aftermarket head unit integration, connect the factory harness wires as follows: the constant 12V power lead (typically yellow) must link to the vehicle’s red/white striped cable, while the ignition-switched 12V (red) pairs with the sedan’s black/white wire. Ground the system via the black wire to the chassis at a bare metal point, preferably near the original connector. Speaker outputs require matching left and right channels–front left (+) is blue/red, front right (+) is pink/black, rear left (+) is gray/red, and rear right (+) is green/white. Negative leads use solid colors: blue (- front left), pink (- front right), gray (- rear left), and green (- rear right).
To avoid electrical interference, route all cables away from the ignition coil, alternator, and fuel pump wiring. Use crimp connectors with heat shrink tubing for secure joins, never twist-and-tape splices. If retaining the factory amplifier (located behind the glove box), ensure the blue/white remote turn-on wire from the new head unit connects to the sedan’s white/black harness lead–failure to do so will result in no sound. For vehicles equipped with a CD changer, the purple/yellow data bus must remain intact if the feature is desired; cutting it disables all rear speakers.
The climate control display shares power with the audio system–disconnecting the factory unit without a bypass module (Metra ASWC-1 or similar) will trigger dashboard warning lights. For manual transmission models, the reverse signal wire (light green/black) may also serve as a backup camera trigger if the optional navigation unit was originally installed. Verify all connections with a multimeter before powering on: battery voltage (12V) on yellow, 10-12V on red during ignition, and 0 ohms between ground and chassis.
- Front speaker impedance: 4 ohms
- Amplifier output: 22 watts RMS per channel
- Fuse rating: 10A for accessory circuit
- Antenna trigger: Blue/white wire, 12V on radio power
- Dimmer wire: Orange, reduces display brightness with headlights
Accessing the Original Audio System Connector Behind the Instrument Panel
Begin by removing the climate control surround panel–it snaps off with minimal force using a trim removal tool positioned at the lower edge. Behind it, the central console housing the CD player or cassette unit is secured by two 10mm bolts; these must be fully extracted before pulling the unit outward. The factory harness connects via a 20-pin white plastic plug, typically located on the left side of the head unit’s rear chassis, though some models feature an additional 8-pin DIN-style connector for amplified systems–verify wire colors against the pinout table below before proceeding.
Connector Pinout Reference
| Pin | Color | Function | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Red | Constant +12V | Fused at 10A |
| 5 | Yellow | Switched +12V | Ignition-controlled |
| 8 | Black | Ground | Chassis connection |
| 12 | Green/White | Front Left (+) | 4-channel systems only |
| 17 | Blue/White | Remote turn-on | Amplifier trigger |
If the harness is not immediately visible, check for hidden retaining clips–press inward on the sides of the white connector to release the locking tabs. For vehicles with factory navigation or premium sound packages, an additional 12-pin harness may be present; trace wires to the amplifier (usually under the driver’s seat) if rear speaker outputs are absent. Always test for voltage with a multimeter before connecting aftermarket components–adjacent pins may carry delayed accessory power or data signals.
Decoding Harness Colors and Their Roles
Begin by locating the 12-pin connector at the back of the audio unit–most systems use a consistent color-coding scheme here. The yellow cable delivers constant +12V from the battery, ensuring memory retention for presets and settings. Pair it with the red wire, which carries switched power (accessory line) to activate the unit only when the ignition is on. Avoid reversing these leads; improper connections drain the battery or prevent the system from powering off.
Ground connections are critical–black wires typically serve this purpose, though some models use brown. Verify continuity with the vehicle’s chassis using a multimeter (below 0.5 ohms). For speaker outputs, match the pairs: front-left (white/gray), front-right (green/gray), rear-left (gray/black), and rear-right (purple/black). Stripes on the wires indicate positive terminals. Never connect speaker wires to power leads; this risks damaging the amplifier or head unit.
Illumination control is handled by the orange or orange/white wire, which dims the display in sync with dashboard lights. Connect this to the vehicle’s dimmer circuit–failure results in overly bright or unreadable screens at night. Antenna triggers (blue or blue/white) activate power antennas or amplifier turn-on signals. For aftermarket amplifiers, splice this wire to the remote turn-on lead; otherwise, the amp won’t engage.
Factory mute functions use a light blue or pink wire, often tied to hands-free systems or speed-sensitive volume. If modifying the setup, leave this disconnected unless retaining OEM integration. Auxiliary inputs or steering wheel controls may require specific resistors or adapters–consult the harness adapter’s pinout for exact values, as these vary by trim level.
For aftermarket installations, always disconnect the battery’s negative terminal before handling wires to prevent shorts. Use crimp connectors or solder joints with heat shrink tubing for durability. Label each wire with masking tape during disassembly to avoid confusion during reassembly. If colors deviate from standard codes, cross-reference with a vehicle-specific guide or use a test light to confirm functions before finalizing connections.
How to Install a New Audio System in Your Vehicle
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery first–this eliminates risks of short circuits while handling electrical connections. Identify the factory harness behind the head unit; it typically has a 10-to-16-pin connector. Label each wire with masking tape and note their functions using the vehicle’s service manual, focusing on power (+12V), ground, speakers, illumination, and antenna trigger.
Match the aftermarket unit’s wiring harness to the factory wires by color and function. Use a multimeter set to DC voltage (20V range) to confirm power wires–probing the connector with the ignition on should read 12V on constant power and accessory wires. Ground wires often cluster with copper strands or black insulation; secure them to bare metal chassis points for minimal resistance. Speaker wires follow a consistent pattern: solid colors (white, gray, green, purple) denote positive leads, while striped variants indicate negatives.
Soldering and Securing Connections
Strip 6mm of insulation from each wire, twist strands tightly, and apply rosin flux before soldering. Heat the joint evenly with a 40W iron until solder flows smoothly–avoid excess solder that can form brittle globs. Slide heat-shrink tubing over the joint before soldering; after cooling, use a heat gun to seal it. For splice connectors, crimp firmly with pliers, then wrap each joint in electrical tape as redundant protection against vibration and moisture.
Route the new harness through existing looms to prevent pinching. Bundle excess wires with zip ties, keeping them away from moving parts, exhaust components, and sharp edges. Test each speaker channel individually using a 9V battery–brief contact between the speaker wire pair should produce an audible click from the driver. Reconnect the battery’s negative terminal, then power on the unit to verify illumination, radio reception, and amplifier operation. If the display dims with headlights, reconfigure the dimmer wire to the correct factory setting.
Reinstall the dashboard trim by aligning clips precisely–start at the top center, pressing firmly downward and outward to avoid breaking plastic tabs. Secure the new head unit with mounting brackets included in the kit, ensuring it sits flush with the dash contours. Replace any air vents or decorative panels removed during disassembly, then perform a final system check before securing the unit permanently.