Step-by-Step 2013 Kia Soul Radio Wiring Diagram Guide for Car Audio Installations

Begin by locating the harness connector behind the infotainment unit–typically accessed by removing the dashboard trim panel on the driver’s side. Use a multimeter set to continuity mode to verify pin assignments: pin 16 (yellow) carries constant 12V power, pin 12 (red) delivers switched ignition feed, and pin 4 (black) grounds the circuit. If retrofitting an aftermarket stereo, splice these wires directly to avoid voltage drop across factory connectors.

Avoid tapping into the CAN bus wires (blue/white and green/white) unless integrating steering wheel controls–these require a data-compatible interface module. For amplifiers, trace the purple and green pairs from the head unit to the rear subwoofer output; these carry high-level signals and should be connected through 18-gauge shielded cable to prevent ground loops.

Check the fuse box layout under the hood for the 10A accessory fuse labeled “AUDIO”–this protects the entire circuit. If static persists after installation, inspect the ground connection near the kick panel for corrosion or loose bolts; a poor ground introduces noise into the signal path.

Replace factory harness clips with weatherproof connectors if routing cables through doors or trunk areas. For vehicles equipped with premium audio, note the separate power wire (orange/black) feeding the amplifier–this must be relocated when upgrading to prevent backfeeding voltage into new components.

Download the OEM electrical schematic from the manufacturer’s technical portal and cross-reference color codes against your model’s VIN to confirm wire functions. Older units may lack Bluetooth or USB pins; in these cases, retrofit the harness using Axxess ASWC-1 or similar modules for full compatibility.

Electrical Connections for the 2013 Compact Crossover Audio System

Begin by locating the factory harness behind the unit’s mounting bracket. The 12-pin connector (Molex 31228-1200) carries power, speaker outputs, and auxiliary inputs. Pin 1 supplies constant 12V from the battery (yellow wire, 18 AWG), while pin 4 delivers switched 12V (red, 20 AWG) via the ignition circuit. Verify continuity on these leads with a multimeter–voltage below 11.8V indicates a drained battery or corroded fuse link. Ground connects at pin 8 (black, 16 AWG), fastened to chassis ground near the glovebox hinge; clean the mounting point with 120-grit sandpaper before securing.

Speaker Wire Color Codes and Impedance

Location	Positive (+)	Negative (-)	Wire Gauge	Nominal Impedance
Front Left	White/Light Blue stripe	White/Brown stripe	22 AWG	4 Ω
Front Right	Gray/Yellow stripe	Gray/Green stripe	22 AWG	4 Ω
Rear Left	Green/Orange stripe	Green/Black stripe	20 AWG	8 Ω
Rear Right	Violet/Red stripe	Violet/Blue stripe	20 AWG	8 Ω

Twist speaker pairs before soldering to minimize electromagnetic interference. Use heat-shrink tubing (polyolefin, 2:1 ratio) over joints–avoid electrical tape, which degrades under dashboard temperatures exceeding 60°C. The antenna lead (pin 12, pale blue, 18 AWG) requires a 10kΩ resistor inline for digital tuner compatibility; omit this for aftermarket GPS units.

Aftermarket adapters like Metra 70-9120 or Scosche KIA8A-WR interface with the OEM harness without splicing. Connect the dimmer circuit (pin 6, pink, 22 AWG) to retain dash illumination synchronization–failure causes backlighting to default to maximum brightness. For amplified subwoofer integration, tap into the rear speaker outputs using capacitors (47μF, 50V); route the signal through a 5-channel amplifier bridged to 2 Ω stable channels. Test all connections with a 5-amp fuse before reassembling trim panels.

Finding the OEM Audio System Harness Plug in Your Compact Crossover

Start by removing the lower dashboard panel beneath the climate controls–it’s secured by two 7mm screws and a plastic clip near the driver’s side footwell. Once detached, the main integration connector sits directly behind the factory stereo unit, distinguishable by a 24-pin rectangular plug with alternating white and gray wires. Trace the bundle upward; it routes alongside the HVAC ducts and terminates in a snap-lock housing, typically positioned 3-4 inches behind the audio head’s mounting bracket.

Disconnect the negative terminal before handling–the blue 12-gauge wire carries constant power even when the ignition is off, while the orange-striped lead controls illumination dimming. Probe the connector’s pins with a multimeter: pin 12 delivers ground, 14 and 15 supply front-left and right channels at 4V RMS respectively, and pin 24 triggers the amplifier if equipped. Misalignment during reassembly risks shorting the memory keeper (purple/white stripe) or interfering with CAN bus signals.

Verify pinouts before splicing–aftermarket adapters often reverse polarity on the red (accessory) and yellow (battery) feeds, which can corrupt presets or disable parking sensor chirps. The factory harness splits into two subconnectors above the glove box hinge: one feeds the tweeters, the other links to the subwoofer output jack, identifiable by its thicker gauge and braided shielding.

Identifying Wire Colors and Their Functions for Factory Head Unit Swaps

Locate the 12-pin power connector behind the original stereo–typically bundled with the vehicle’s main harness. Pin assignments follow an industry-standard color scheme: solid yellow delivers constant 12V memory power, red supplies switched ignition 12V, black is chassis ground, while orange or orange/white carries illumination control. Blue/white remote turn-on activates powered antennas or amplifiers. For speaker outputs, trace paired wires–front left-positive (gray), front left-negative (gray/black), rear right-positive (purple), rear right-negative (purple/black)–through the harness to confirm connections using a multimeter set to DC volts. These colors remain consistent across most aftermarket single-DIN and double-DIN units, but verify polarities with a test light before finalizing splices.

Critical Wires to Double-Check

• Yellow – fused +12V uninterrupted power (requires inline fuse, typically 10A)
• Red – ignition-switched +12V (test with key in ACC/ON position)
• Orange/White – dimmer-controlled LED lighting wire (variable voltage)
• Blue/White – remote turn-on lead (12V trigger for external amps)
• Brown – mute signal (rare; function varies by OEM)

Miswired speaker pairs produce phase cancellation; always match positive to positive (solid color) and negative to negative (striped). Aftermarket harness adapters simplify splicing–use crimp connectors or solder with heat-shrink tubing for corrosion-proof joints. Avoid twisting bare wires; exposed connections invite short circuits under vibration.

Integrating a Third-Party Audio System with Your Vehicle’s Factory Connector

Locate the original plug behind the dashboard panel–typically a 12-pin or 16-pin Molex connector in this make and model. Match the aftermarket harness wires to the factory colors using a multimeter to verify function before splicing:

• Yellow: Main power (constant 12V, verify with ignition off)
• Red: Switched power (activates with key in ACC or ON)
• Black: Chassis ground (ensure corrosion-free connection)
• Blue/white: Amplifier turn-on (connect to aftermarket amp remote)
• Orange (solid/varied stripe): Illumination dimmer (adjusts display brightness)
• Gray/white and green/white: Front left/right speakers (+/-)
• Purple/white and brown/white: Rear left/right speakers (+/-)

Use solder-seal connectors or crimp terminals with adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing for permanent splices. Avoid electrical tape–it degrades under heat, risking shorts. Test each connection with a 9V battery before finalizing: speaker wires should produce a clear click when touched to the leads.

If the factory harness includes a CAN bus interface (common in vehicles with steering wheel controls), retain the original data wires–cutting them may trigger error codes. For retained accessory power (RAP), connect the aftermarket unit’s memory retention wire to the yellow constant power line, not the red switched line. Double-check for voltage drop across the ground connection; readings above 0.1V indicate poor conductivity requiring rework.

How to Safely Disassemble Your Vehicle’s Center Console for Audio Unit Servicing

Begin by disconnecting the negative terminal of the car battery to prevent electrical shorts or accidental airbag deployment. Use a 10mm socket to loosen the clamp, then tuck the cable away from the terminal.

Remove the rubber inserts from both front door sill plates using a flathead screwdriver. Pry upward gently to avoid damaging the clips; these plates conceal two Torx T20 screws securing the lower dash trim.

Locate the ashtray or optional storage compartment beneath the climate controls. Slide it out fully and set aside–this exposes two Phillips #2 screws. A third screw is hidden behind a small rectangular cap; pop it off with the screwdriver to access it.

Detach the hazard light switch by pulling it straight toward you. Useneedle-nose pliers to squeeze the release tabs on its sides if it resists. Unplug the wiring harness from the back, noting its orientation for reinstallation.

Grasp the upper trim panel firmly at its lower edge just above the air vents. Pull outward with steady force–the panel is held by seven plastic clips spaced unevenly across its width. Work from one side to the other to release them without snapping.

Once the dashboard fascia is free, tilt it upward carefully. You’ll see the factory audio head unit mounted on a metal bracket. Press in on the spring-loaded clips at each corner of the unit to slide it forward. Disconnect the antenna lead and wiring harnesses before fully removing it.

For reinstallation, reverse each step precisely. Recheck all harness connections and clip engagements before reattaching the battery terminal. Confirm all controls operate correctly before driving.