Harley Davidson Street Glide 2013 Electrical Wiring Schematic Guide
Begin by locating the main fuse block beneath the left side panel–this houses critical protection for the bike’s charging and lighting circuits. The 30-amp main fuse is your first checkpoint; verify its integrity before tracing wires downstream. If corrosion or oxidation is present, replace it immediately to prevent voltage drops that disrupt fuel injection timing.
Trace the red wire (4 AWG) from the battery terminal to the starter solenoid, ensuring it passes through the ignition switch without splices. A common failure point occurs where this wire meets the solenoid’s spade terminal; use dielectric grease during reassembly to inhibit moisture ingress. The solenoid’s ground path, typically a black/yellow stripe, must connect directly to the engine block–not the frame–to avoid intermittent starting issues.
For the lighting subsystem, focus on the headlight relay (Part #70103-03C). The relay’s trigger wire (violet/yellow) originates from the body control module (BCM) and requires a 12V signal to activate. If the high beam functions but the low beam fails, inspect the gray/black wire bridging the headlight bulb to ground; a loose connection here mimics bulb failure. Use a multimeter set to continuity mode to confirm a clean path to the frame.
Examine the turn signal flasher (Part #71514-98B) located near the battery tray. The flasher’s dark green/white output wire must feed both front and rear signal circuits without branching to other accessories. Overloading this wire–such as tapping aftermarket LEDs–causes rapid flashing; solve this by inserting a diode (1N4007) in series with each LED load.
Finally, test the neutral safety switch (gray/red wire) by placing the transmission in neutral while observing voltage at the kickstand safety relay. A consistent 12V reading confirms proper function; absence indicates a faulty switch or interrupted path through the side stand interlock. Always secure wire ties every 4 inches along the harness to prevent chafing against the frame’s sharp edges.
Harley Touring Model Electrical Schematic Guide
Begin by locating the main fuse block under the seat–remove the left-side cover to access terminals labeled A, B, C, and G. Terminal A supplies 12V constant power, critical for memory retention in the ECU. Verify continuity between terminal C and ground using a multimeter set to ohms; readings above 0.5Ω indicate corrosion requiring dielectric grease application. Ignore “smart” fuse adapters–they introduce voltage drops that disrupt CAN bus communication.
Check the ignition switch harness for frayed wires near the steering head. The orange/white stripe wire carries ignition-switched power to the fuel pump relay; pinch damage here causes intermittent stalling. Use heat-shrink tubing, not electrical tape, for repairs–moisture ingress leads to sulfation of copper strands within 18 months. The brown/white wire (pin 13 on the 30-pin ECM connector) controls the starter relay; a false reading at this pin triggers a P0562 code during diagnostics.
- Front turn signal sockets: Inspect bulbs for internal blackening–tungsten deposits reduce resistance, increasing current draw beyond the 2.1A relay capacity.
- Battery ground strap: Clean mounting surfaces with a wire brush; paint or rust creates 0.3V drops, mimicking parasitic drain.
- Security module: Bypass the 10A fuse temporarily to test immobilizer functionality–no start condition confirms faulty antenna coil (resistance should read 800-1200Ω).
For LED upgrades, replace the flasher relay (part #70948-98B) with an electronic version–stock mechanical relays fail at temperatures above 190°F. The violet/black wire (pin 6 on the headlight connector) carries high-beam signal; splice failures here disable DRLs without triggering dash warnings. Always disconnect the battery’s negative terminal before probing circuits–shorts can destroy the ECU’s 3.3V logic board.
Use the factory service manual’s pinout tables for reference–aftermarket “universal” schematics omit critical details like the yellow/red wire (pin 1 on the TSSM) that activates the starter interlock. Measure voltage at the diagnostic connector (pin 16, 12V; pin 4, ground) before connecting scan tools–incorrect readings suggest a faulty ignition relay (part #31613-05). Replace corroded bullet connectors with gold-plated versions–copper oxidation adds 0.2Ω resistance per connection, degrading sensor signals over time.
Finding Critical Electrical Connector Points on the Harley Touring Model
Begin beneath the seat–disconnect the negative battery terminal first to prevent short circuits. The main fuse block sits directly behind the battery, secured by two Torx-25 bolts. Label each connector before removal: the 40-amp main fuse supplies power to the ignition and accessory circuits.
The left fairing houses the turn signal module and front lighting harness. Remove the inner panel by releasing three plastic clips near the mirror base. The 12-pin connector (black) interfaces with the handlebar controls; verify pin continuity with a multimeter–corroded terminals often cause intermittent signals.
Trace the primary cable loom from the riser block down the steering neck. The headlamp connector (white, 8-pin) splits into high/low beams and running lights. Inspect for chafing where the loom bends against the fork tube–replace the protective sleeve if worn to avoid exposed wiring hazards.
Under the tank, locate the engine control module (ECM) harness. The 32-pin plug (gray) connects to fuel injectors, sensor inputs, and the tachometer signal. Mismatched connections here trigger limp mode–cross-reference pinouts with service manual #99498-08 before reseating.
| Harness Section | Connector Color | Pin Count | Critical Check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Handlebar Controls | Black | 12 | Horn/turn signal relay |
| ECM Interface | Gray | 32 | Oxygen sensor wiring |
| Tail Light Cluster | Brown | 6 | License plate illumination |
Access the rear electrical box by removing the side panel adjacent to the saddlebag. The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) harness (blue, 4-pin) routes through the swingarm; tug-resistant connectors prevent false speedometer readings. Test resistance between pins A and B–should read 200-500 ohms at rest.
Topcase lighting and brake circuits converge at the tail section. The brake light switch harness (green/white) must click audibly when pressed–replace switch if voltage drops below 12.4V under load. Check for water ingress where the harness enters the taillight housing–seal with dielectric grease.
Final inspection: reconnect battery and cycle ignition five times. Monitor for stray current draw above 0.15A–use an ammeter between battery terminal and cable. Clamp test leads around suspect wires while wiggling harness segments to isolate intermittent shorts.
Troubleshooting Quick Reference
- Intermittent brake light: Tap switch lightly while testing continuity
- Non-responsive turn signals: Swap front/rear bulb sockets to isolate relay
- Radio static: Check antenna cable ground at fairing bulkhead
Step-by-Step Guide to Tracing the Ignition System Circuit Paths
Locate the primary ignition coil near the bike’s engine block–typically secured with two bolts and featuring two thick cables (spark plug leads) exiting the housing. Disconnect the battery’s negative terminal first to eliminate power flow; failure to do so risks shorting components during probing. Use a multimeter set to continuity mode, touching the black probe to the coil’s metal casing and the red probe to each terminal sequentially. The terminal producing a tone or near-zero resistance connects to the ignition switch’s output side.
Trace the wiring harness from the ignition switch upward toward the handlebar assembly, identifying the 10-gauge red wire with a yellow stripe–this carries switched voltage to the coil. Follow it through the main bundle, checking for chafing where the harness bends near the steering head or routes behind the instrument cluster. If voltage drops below 10.5V at the coil with the ignition on, inspect connectors for corrosion or loose pins; clean with contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease before reassembly.
Test the pulse generator by backprobing the sensor’s three-wire connector with the engine off. The black/white wire should register as ground (0V), the green/yellow wire as reference voltage (approximately 5V), and the remaining wire (gray/red on most touring models) should fluctuate between 0-5V when the flywheel rotates. If readings remain static, replace the sensor or verify the stator’s output with an AC voltmeter at 150-300V during cranking.
Verify the run/stop relay’s operation by removing its cover and manually pressing the internal switch while monitoring voltage at the ignition coil’s positive terminal. A functioning relay will show battery voltage (12.6V) on both sides of the switch contacts when engaged. If voltage appears on only one side, replace the relay immediately–common failure points include burnt contacts or melted solder joints inside non-serviceable units.
Identifying Color Codes and Connector Types in the Fuse Panel
Locate the fuse panel under the left side cover–remove the two T27 Torx screws to access it. Trace each wire bundle back to its source, verifying color codes against the service manual: solid violet (V), violet with white tracer (VW), and orange with black tracer (OB) are primary ignition feeds. Use a multimeter set to 20VDC to confirm voltage presence–ground the black probe to the battery negative terminal and test red, yellow, and pink wires for a steady 12.6V reading. If voltage drops below 12.2V, inspect the 30A Maxi-fuse near the starter relay for corrosion or loose crimps. Replace any connector exhibiting melted plastic or discolored pins.
Matching Harness Connectors to Fuse Assignments
Identify the 12-pin sealed connectors by their rectangular (Deutsch DT series) or oval (Metri-Pack 630) housings–DT connectors use a pull-to-release tab, while Metri-Pack requires a twist-and-pull motion. Label each connector with its corresponding circuit: the orange 10-pin controls the ECM, while the gray 6-pin feeds lighting relays. For fused links, note the amperage stamped on the fuse–green (20A), blue (15A), and red (10A) correlates to specific circuits like fuel pump, turn signals, and horn. If a fuse blows repeatedly, disconnect the downstream device and check for shorts with an ohmmeter (below 0.5 ohms indicates a fault).