Complete 2017 Dodge Charger Radio Wiring Diagram and Color Codes Guide
Start by locating the main harness behind the factory infotainment unit–typically color-coded with orange/white (constant 12V), yellow (switched power), black (ground), and blue/white (amplifier trigger). These four conductors are standard across most late-model platforms, but verify with a multimeter before making connections. Incorrect wiring risks blowing fuses or damaging integrated modules like the Uconnect interface or rear camera feed.
Avoid splicing into the green/violet (left rear speaker) or gray/violet (right rear speaker) leads unless replacing the entire harness. Partial modifications disrupt the factory load resistors, causing uneven volume levels or static. Instead, use a line-level converter for aftermarket amplifiers–connect it directly to the purple/white (left front) and dark green/white (right front) outputs to preserve OEM tuning algorithms.
The data bus wires (pink/yellow and tan/red) must remain intact for climate control and steering wheel audio buttons to function. Cutting these disables voice commands and satellite features. For retrofit installations, pin the connector housing (Part # 68107400AA) to ensure proper seating–loose connections trigger CODE U1400 or intermittent failures. Always secure grounds at a chassis point with ≤0.5 ohms resistance; failing this introduces engine noise or USB charging issues.
For composite video inputs, the light blue (reverse camera signal) and brown/white (auxiliary video) lines require shielded cables to prevent interference from the alternator or ignition coils. Route wires away from high-current pathways like the starter motor cable and fuel pump relay. Test each circuit with a load simulator before finalizing connections–this catches shorts that might not trip a fuse but fry microprocessors.
Keep a 10A inline fuse on all power feeds, even if the harness includes one. Factory replacements (e.g., Mopar 68107401AA) include pre-terminated connectors, but aftermarket adapters often lack strain relief. Crimp joints with gold-plated terminals and heat-shrink tubing rated for 125°C–cheaper alternatives melt under engine bay temperatures.
Electrical Connections for the 2017 Sedan’s Infotainment System
Begin by locating the factory harness behind the head unit’s mounting bracket. The connector labeled C1 houses 12 critical pins: A1 (constant 12V), A2 (ground), A3 (illumination), A4 (accessory power), and A5-A12 for speaker outputs. Use a multimeter to verify signal presence before proceeding–expected readings are 12V on A1, 0V on A2, and 4-8V on A4 during ignition.
- Pin A6 (front right speaker +) pairs with A7 (front right -)
- Pin A8 (rear right +) connects to A9 (rear right -)
- Pin A10 (front left +) links to A11 (front left -)
- Pin A12 (rear left +) matches A5 (rear left -)
For aftermarket installations, bypass the factory amplifier by cutting wires at the 18-inch mark from the harness. The amplifier resides under the passenger seat, identifiable by its 22-pin connector. Severing the purple (left rear +) and pink (right rear +) wires disables the amp, redirecting clean audio signals directly to the speakers.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
If the display remains dark, check fuse F41 in the integrated power module–located under the hood, driver’s side. A 20A fuse failure often causes silent failures. For distorted audio, inspect the yellow (antenna) and gray (data bus) wires; corrosion here mimics speaker damage but originates from the harness’s splice point near the glove box.
Adapters like Metra 70-1002 simplify integration but may not support navigation functions. The OEM GPS module, wired through pins B3 (GPS data) and B4 (GPS ground), requires a bypass for third-party units. Without this, real-time traffic updates and turn-by-turn directions will malfunction. Secure connections with solder and heat-shrink tubing–electrical tape degrades within 18 months under vehicle vibrations.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent short circuits.
- Remove climate control cluster using a trim tool–no screws secure it.
- Unplug the head unit harness and antenna cable first to avoid pin damage.
- Route new wiring through the center console void–avoid sharp edges near the transmission tunnel.
- Test all functions (AM/FM, Bluetooth, USB) before final reassembly.
Finding the Audio System Connector Points in Your Vehicle
Begin by removing the center console trim panel. Use a trim removal tool to carefully pry off the clips securing the panel–there are six clips along the perimeter. Disconnect the cigarette lighter and USB port harnesses before fully detaching the panel to avoid straining the connectors. Behind the lower portion, you’ll find the primary harness cluster for the infotainment unit.
The main connection bundle splits into three distinct plugs: a 12-pin cylindrical connector for amplifier signals, an 8-pin rectangular plug for power and ground, and a 24-pin flat plug handling speaker outputs and data. Label each immediately–misidentifying them will cause signal issues or amplifier failure. The cylindrical plug’s pinout is particularly sensitive; incorrect placement can damage the factory amplifier beyond repair.
Key Connector Pinouts
Amplifier Plug (12-pin)
Pin 1: Rear right positive (+)
Pin 2: Rear right negative (-)
Pin 3: Front right positive (+)
Pin 4: Front right negative (-)
Pins 5-6: Left channel (front/rear, mirrored to right)
Pins 7-8: Subwoofer control lines
Pins 9-12: Power antenna and mute signal
Power Plug (8-pin)
Pin 1: Constant 12V (yellow)
Pin 2: Switched 12V (red)
Pin 3: Ground (black)
Pin 4: Illumination (orange/white)
Pins 5-8: CAN bus data lines (reserved for OEM integration)
Trace each wire from the harness to the vehicle’s main fuse box before splicing. The constant power line (pin 1, yellow) draws from fuse F42 (20A), while the switched line (pin 2, red) routes through fuse F34 (10A). Verify voltages with a multimeter–any deviation indicates a blown fuse or faulty relay, which must be addressed to prevent electrical shorts.
Tools and Precautions
Use a 10-gauge crimp connector for ground splices to handle the amplifier’s current load. For signal wires, stick to soldered joints with heat-shrink tubing–twisting or tape wraps will degrade over time, causing intermittent audio dropouts. Never tap into the CAN bus lines (pins 5-8 on power plug); these manage steering wheel controls and require specialized adapters if modification is necessary.
If retaining the OEM amplifier, locate its mounting bracket behind the left rear quarter panel. The amplifier’s secondary harness uses a 16-pin plug; disconnect the battery before handling it to avoid short circuits. Reassembly requires aligning the trim clips precisely–misalignment will leave visible gaps or cause rattles. Test all functions–volume, balance, and fade–before finalizing the installation.
Precision Guide to Aftermarket Audio System Wire Identification
Begin by locating the 12-volt constant power lead–typically a solid yellow wire–verified with a multimeter showing uninterrupted voltage regardless of ignition state. This unswitched feed powers memory functions for presets and clock retention, critical for seamless operation without battery drain exceeding 50mA. Pair this with the ignition-switched accessory wire (often red) to prevent parasitic draw when the system is off; failing to isolate these will result in premature battery failure.
Ground connections demand bare-metal contact on unpainted chassis points, ideally within 18 inches of the head unit’s mounting location. Use a 14-gauge or thicker black wire terminated with a ring terminal crimped and soldered for corrosion resistance. Avoid daisy-chaining grounds through factory harnesses; this introduces noise artifacts and potential electrical interference, degrading signal clarity in high-frequency ranges above 10kHz. Verify ground integrity with a continuity test set to 2 ohms or lower.
Speaker outputs follow a consistent color scheme: front left positive (+) as gray, front left negative (-) gray/black; front right (+) white, front right (-) white/black; rear left (+) green, rear left (-) green/black; rear right (+) purple, rear right (-) purple/black. Confirm polarity with a 9V battery test–brief application should produce an audible thump from the corresponding speaker. Reversing polarity causes phase cancellation, audibly flattening midrange frequencies and reducing bass impact by up to 6dB.
Amplifier remote turn-on utilizes a thin blue wire (sometimes blue/white) from the aftermarket harness, triggering external amps via a 12V signal when the system activates. Route this separate from power cables to avoid voltage spikes; secure it with a 1A fuse within 18 inches of the source. For vehicles with factory amplified systems, additional interface adapters may require harness-specific pins like purple/white for data signals–check compatibility matrices before installation to prevent blown fuses or damaged modules.
Aftermarket integration kits often include wire harness adapters bridging OEM connectors to standard ISO connectors. Validate all connections with a load simulator set to 4-8 ohms before finalizing; this confirms stable power delivery under real-world conditions. Double-check for stray strands or exposed conductors post-soldering–even a single shorted wire can trip a factory fuse link designed to protect onboard computers, leaving dash displays nonfunctional until a dealer reset is performed.