Complete Viper 5706v Remote Starter Wiring Guide and Color Codes
Begin by locating the central control module–typically a compact, rectangular unit mounted beneath the dashboard or inside the fuse panel compartment. Identify the harness connector with 10-12 color-coded wires; mismatching these can cause permanent damage to the system’s microprocessors. Pin assignments must align precisely as follows:
Red (+12V constant) connects directly to the battery’s positive terminal via an in-line 20A fuse, no exceptions. Yellow (starter ignition) taps into the ignition switch circuit, ensuring the unit powers only when the key is turned. Black (ground) must terminate at a clean, bare-metal chassis point–avoid painted or corroded surfaces to prevent voltage drops.
For door trigger inputs (Blue/White), splice into the existing door ajar switch wire, usually found behind the kick panel or in the driver’s side door wiring loom. Confirm polarity with a multimeter; incorrectly wired triggers will disable arming functions. Auxiliary outputs (Pink/Black) should interface with external relays if controlling high-current devices like window motors or trunk actuators–never connect directly to the module.
Remote starter connections require specific wire gauges: Green (tachometer input) demands a 16-18 AWG wire to the coil’s negative terminal, while Gray (horn honk) merges with the factory horn circuit but must include a 10A fuse to bypass potential overloads. Skipping this risks frying the onboard circuits.
Test each connection independently before finalizing. Use a LED test light to verify power at the module’s harness–steady illumination confirms correct installation. If the system fails to initialize, recheck ground integrity first; 70% of troubleshooting cases trace back to poor grounding.
Installation Blueprint for 5706 Remote Start System: Step-by-Step Guide
Connect the constant 12V power lead (thick red wire) directly to the vehicle’s battery terminal using an inline 30A fuse placed within 18 inches of the connection point. Avoid splicing into accessory circuits, as this can cause voltage drops during engine cranking, leading to system resets or failed starts. For vehicles with smart alternators or low-voltage shutoff features, add a 1N4001 diode on the red wire to prevent reverse current that may trigger error codes in the vehicle’s computer.
Route the ignition input (thin brown wire) to the ignition switch’s run position–locate this by probing the wiring harness behind the steering column or under the dash with a multimeter while turning the key to the “ON” position. Confirm a clean 12V signal without fluctuations before making the final connection. In push-to-start vehicles, tap into the accessory relay output wire instead, typically found in the fuse box (check the owner’s manual for exact fuse numbers).
- Starter output (yellow/red striped): Attach to the solenoid control wire–verify compatibility by testing if the wire activates the starter without engaging the accessory circuits when energized. For manual transmission cars, wire a neutral safety switch in series to prevent engine starts while in gear.
- Ground (black wire): Secure to bare metal within 12 inches of the module, sanding the contact point to remove paint or corrosion. A weak ground results in intermittent operation or false alarms.
- Tachometer input (purple wire): For diesel engines or non-coil ignition systems, omit this connection. On gasoline engines, splice into the coil’s negative (-) terminal or the ECU’s tach signal wire–consult a vehicle-specific repair manual for exact pinouts.
- Door trigger (thin white wire, optional): Link to the door ajar switch’s 12V side to enable passive arming. If the vehicle uses negative triggers, add a 1K ohm resistor in parallel to maintain functionality.
Program the system’s pulse-length settings after installation by holding the valet button until the LED flashes twice, then send a lock command from the key fob to sync. For vehicles with CAN bus networks, disable the “door ajar” warning light in the instrument cluster to prevent conflicts–this is often accomplished via a dealer-level scan tool or by pulling the appropriate fuse (refer to the wiring manual for the fuse location). Test the remote start in 30-second bursts, monitoring for unusual sounds or electrical interference, such as flickering dashboard lights, which indicate a misrouted wire or insufficient ground.
Locating Critical Elements in the Remote Start Installation Blueprint
Begin by tracing the ignition input wire (typically red or pink) from the harness to the vehicle’s ignition switch. This connection activates the system’s primary functions, ensuring power flows only when the key is in the “ON” or “ACC” position. Test continuity with a multimeter–resistance should drop to zero when the switch engages. Mistakes here can trigger false starts or erratic behavior.
Next, isolate the starter output cable (often yellow or purple-stripe). This line bridges the module to the vehicle’s starter solenoid, delivering a brief 12V pulse to crank the engine. Confirm the wire’s gauge matches the solenoid’s requirements (usually 12-14 AWG) to prevent voltage drop. Errors in this link may lead to no-start conditions or premature relay failure.
Security and Feedback Loops
- The tachometer input (white or gray) requires a direct splice into the engine’s RPM signal–either from the ignition coil or ECU. This signal governs shutdown timing and validates engine run status. Incorrect splicing risks the system interpreting interference as a stall.
- Brake pedal input (white/black) must interrupt the starter circuit when depressed. Verify its integration with the vehicle’s brake light switch; misrouting here can disable the remote start entirely or create safety hazards during manual starts.
- Hood pin switch (purple/white) demands a normally closed circuit. Route this wire through a dedicated pin switch to disable starting when the hood is open. Skipping this step voids critical safety protections.
Examine the ground reference (black). A poor connection–especially with paint, corrosion, or insufficient surface area–causes intermittent failures, voltage spikes, or persistent error codes. Use a dedicated bolt or sanded chassis point, and secure with a star washer to maintain conductivity. Neglecting this step often mimics more complex issues.
For auxiliary outputs (blue or green), match each function to the intended accessory–whether trunk release, parking lights, or alarm chirps. Label wires during installation to avoid confusion during troubleshooting. Cross-wiring these outputs can drain the battery or trigger unintended actions, so confirm each circuit’s purpose against the vehicle’s manual before connecting.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide for the 5706v Remote Engine Starter
Disconnect the vehicle’s negative battery terminal first–this prevents accidental shorts or damage to sensitive electronics during installation. Locate the ignition harness behind the dash; identify the 12V constant, ignition, starter, and accessory wires by testing with a multimeter. Splice the remote start module’s corresponding leads (red for power, pink for ignition, yellow for starter, and orange for accessory) directly to these factory wires using solder and heat-shrink tubing–avoid crimp connectors to prevent corrosion or loose connections over time.
Integrating Security and Keyless Entry Features
Connect the module’s ground wire (black) to a clean, bare metal surface under the dash, ensuring no paint or rust interferes with conductivity. For the tachometer input (blue wire), tap into the engine’s ignition coil or fuel injector signal wire–this allows the system to monitor RPM and shut down if the engine stalls. If the vehicle has factory anti-theft, link the bypass module (white/black wire) to the immobilizer data line; consult the specific module’s instructions, as methods vary by manufacturer (GM Class 2, Ford PATS, or Chrysler CAN bus).
Test each connection in stages: verify power, ignition, and starter engagement before proceeding. Program the remote transmitter by following the system’s Learn Mode (typically holding the start button for 5 seconds while cycling the ignition). Once activated, ensure the remote start engages smoothly, cranks the engine for 3-5 seconds, and shuts off if the hood, brake, or door switches are triggered. Secure all wires with zip ties and route away from moving parts (steering column, pedals) to avoid pinching or chafing.
Diagnosing Faulty Connections in Remote Start System Setups
Check the relay contacts for corrosion or pitting if the unit fails to engage. Use a multimeter set to continuity mode across pins 87 and 30–resistance should not exceed 0.5 ohms. Clean contacts with a fiberglass pen or replace the relay if readings exceed this threshold. Pay special attention to the fuse linked to the ignition circuit; a blown 15A fuse often mimics a dead module. Swap with an identically rated fuse from a non-critical circuit to verify.
Verify the siren output by triggering the alarm manually–absence of sound indicates a broken loop or faulty transducer. Test the transducer directly with 12V from a bench power supply; if functional, inspect the control module output at connector C-5 pin 1 (pink/black wire) during alarm activation. Expected voltage: 12V pulsed. If missing, replace the module. For intermittent failures, probe the door trigger input (white/black wire) with the vehicle’s door ajar switch pressed–voltage should drop to 0V. If not, trace the wire back to the switch, checking for shorts to ground.
| Symptom | Diagnostic Step | Expected Result | Action if Failed |
|---|---|---|---|
| No remote start | Measure pin 3 (red/yellow) with ignition off | 12V constant | Check ignition harness for breaks |
| False alarms | Test shock sensor resistance (pin 4) | 3.3–4.7 kΩ | Recalibrate or replace sensor |
| LED flashes erratically | Inspect valet switch wiring (pin 6) | No voltage drop to ground | Reseat connector or replace switch |